The clean beauty revolution has been a pervasive movement touching on the elements of consumer safety, health, and environmental ethics. We’ve come a long way, from aluminum-free deodorants to paraben-free everything. Since the nineties, when natural beauty products started emerging from the beauty aisles at Whole Foods Market, the industry as a whole has grown monumentally, with brands covering a broad spectrum of products. The clean beauty market is on track to reach $22 billion by 2024. The crusade for ‘cleanest’ and most effective products has been primarily fueled by clean beauty evangelists- a.k.a The Consumer, especially with the aid of social media platforms like TikTok.

Like the ‘Clean 15’ and ‘Dirty Dozen’, in organic speak, companies such as Credo, Ulta Beauty, Sephora, and Drunk Elephant have designated their own lists of ‘bad for you’ ingredients; the two main culprits being parabens and sulphates. The pressing challenge of the day revolves around the technical definition of “clean” which, unlike organic products, is currently undefined and unregulated. Interestingly enough, a survey conducted by Mellman Group and American viewpoint reveals a discrepancy between consumer knowledge and facts. 68% of cosmetic users believe that chemicals used in personal care products have been regulated by the federal government, when in fact, this is not true. The last piece of legislation to pass in the US on personal care products was in 1938, since then, it’s been primarily up to the brands to declare that their products are safe for use. Today, it’s still up to brands to practice honest communication methods.

Clean Beauty Trend Fueled by Millennials and Gen Z Shoppers

The potential buying power of the Millennial and Gen Z populations is hard to ignore. Millennials and Gen Zs are more likely to be on social media apps like Instagram and TikTok, in which much of the clean beauty rhetoric and routines are propagated. A recent study revealed that 41% of Millennials and Gen Z believed that Instagram influenced their purchasing decisions. According to an annual ESG report by makeup retailer Ulta Beauty, 90% of Gen Z and younger Millennials, are interested in purchasing clean beauty products in the future. The pandemic spurred a noticeable impact on the cosmetic market, leaning more towards sustainable practices.

Some Countries Are Further Ahead of the Clean Beauty Wave

Some countries, like the EU, are more stringent on what ingredients can be used and sold in products. Currently, there are 1,300 banned ingredients in the EU for personal care, around 500 banned in Canada, and only 11 in the USA. Interestingly enough in the USA, where the clean beauty trend runs rampant, it is estimated that about a third of the beauty market is now labelled as “clean.” This number is estimated to increase by 12% by 2027. More brands will likely shift their messaging towards sustainability, mirroring the heightened values in consumer preference.

Challenges with Clean Beauty

The underlying caveat to the clean beauty obsession is the lack of scientific research on the ‘so-called’ evil ingredients. Claims that parabens cause cancer are largely overstated, with no reference to correct dosing. Therefore, beauty brands must exercise a degree of caution in terms of the types of marketing or advertising claims they make, in such a way that “upholds the confidence of the consumer…”

Curtis Klaasen, toxicologist and member of Cosmetic Ingredient Review told the Washington Post, “Although some chemicals can be dangerous in high concentrations, the low doses found in cosmetics do no harm…Furthermore, there’s no scientific evidence to support claims that a cumulative effect of exposure to many chemicals daily can be toxic.”

Another noteworthy consideration is the role of social media like TikTok, which many Gen Z or younger millennials use as search engines and educational tools. The hashtag #cleanbeauty has over 2 billion hits (as of October 2023) and the trends and “hacks” are an ever-growing, living eco-system. However, not every “influencer” is an expert, and some of the information being dispelled could be prone to error and real consequences. For example, the anti-sunscreen TikTok trend encourages people to ditch sunscreen or to make homemade renditions. People at home simply do not have access to a hygienic environment and proper dosing equipment to make sunscreen that is safe and effective for daily and long-term use. As a result, uninformed trends like this can turn people away from using sunscreen, which has worse implications for skin health. Or worse, create products that irritate and damage the skin barrier.

Furthermore, this herd mentality that ingredients are either “good” or “bad” has caused a divide in the skincare industry. Brands like DECIEM have attempted to fight back, with their “Anti-Clean Beauty” campaign, which seeks to educate consumers on the technical application of every ingredient and chemical used in their products. Much of the research points to the fact that most consumers don’t understand what ingredients like coenzyme and hyaluronic acid are and what they actually do. Although many of these words have become trendy skincare buzzwords.

Our partnered brand Hyalogic, is a pioneer in delivering pure, hyaluronic-based solutions, which are naturally occurring in the body to maintain skin and joint health. They create a range of scientifically backed skin care products as well as supplements, like HA gummies.

Hyaluronic Acid Gummies by Hyalogic

Therefore, the lack of standardization, rampant access to disinformation, and the lack of sufficient research on “bad” ingredients creates confusion within the clean beauty paradigm. It’s remains the responsibility of brands to guide consumers honestly and ethically. Brands like Refresh Botanicals are making a prime example of customer education. They intentionally don’t have the word “clean” in any of their marketing material, and instead offer scientifically backed formulations at fair prices. The brand offers a full breakdown of bioactives used in their formulations, of which 99.46% are naturally derived. They are one of the only ECOCERT-certified skincare brands in Canada.

Facial mask, facial cleanser, and facial moisturizer from Refresh Botanicals

Conclusion

The clean beauty revolution has undeniably reshaped the landscape of the beauty industry, driven by a collective consciousness for consumer safety, health, and environmental responsibility. From the emergence of aluminum-free deodorants to a projected $22 billion market by 2024, the momentum is undeniable. The movement, however, stands at a crossroads of misinformation and a lack of standardized definitions.

As younger consumers increasingly turn to social media platforms like TikTok and Instagram for beauty insights, the power of influence cannot be overstated. The sway of trends, however, introduces challenges—misinformation on ingredients, exaggerated claims, and a divisive categorization of ingredients as either "clean" or "evil."

The global stage paints a varied picture, with countries like the EU leading the charge in ingredient regulations, while the USA grapples with a mere 11 banned ingredients. The discrepancy between consumer perception and reality, as highlighted by a Mellman Group and American Viewpoint survey, underscores the pressing need for a standardized definition of "clean."

Moreover, the clean beauty obsession faces scrutiny due to a lack of scientific research on purportedly harmful ingredients. The cautionary tale of unsubstantiated claims, such as the alleged cancer-causing properties of parabens, calls for a balanced perspective. The role of influencers, often revered as beauty authorities on social media, becomes a double-edged sword as misinformation proliferates.

In navigating this intricate landscape, brands play a pivotal role. Some, like DECIEM, challenge the dichotomy of "clean" and "non-clean" with an educational approach. Others, like Hyalogic and Refresh Botanicals, prioritize transparency and customer education over marketing buzzwords, setting an example for responsible practices.

The clean beauty revolution is undoubtedly a force for positive change, aligning with sustainability and conscious consumerism. However, its future success hinges on bridging the gap between perception and reality, fostering informed decisions, and establishing a unified standard that ensures the integrity of the movement. As the industry evolves, it is not merely about the pursuit of clean beauty but about empowering consumers with knowledge, fostering trust, and navigating the delicate balance between innovation and responsibility.
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